Leather Overcoat

I bought this great lamb nappa coat from Hanna Sarén several years back. Being very light and non wrinkable it’s been a perfect traveling companion, and it shurely has seen a lot. Especially I remember one autumn in Florence. It was raining cats and dogs and the coat and everything else on me got soaking wet. I ended up believing it was time to say good bye as I squeezed it dry in my hotel room. But the next morning it was all dry and ready for action. After hard times like this it has gotten a bit rugged and I thought my faithful traveling pal would deserve a full beauty treatment. And being actually from men’s collection, it could emerge again in a more feminine form. Hanna, would you transform it into something girly and fun? I can’t wait to see the result…

This mens’ overcoat was in aw0102 collection. Look is modern and stylish. Soft lamb nappa with fleece lining side is a great combination. That combination was released in Bologna leather fair in 1999. When I saw it I just get so excited that I start to jump and clap my hands. You can imagine the excitement when you find a perfect material to create a perfect piece. And that is what I love in this fashion business, being a designer falling in love in a first sight, no matter if it is material or colour or just a feeling, but that is just what keep us designers going..

Boys, girls, boys, girls. Waist cutting line is a perfect line to cut a men’s overcoat to to a girl’s waistcoat. Which I did. After marking new cutting line I noticed that the coat was stretched hugely from back, but only from right side from shoulder to waist line, and not at all from sideseam or front waist cutting line. This coat has been used a lot when driving a car. Is she a taxi driver, or what? After several hours was problem solved and I was happy to get back to design thinking. I unseemed a pocket and draped one edge to place it to a right side collar line. A collar wing piece was too menlish, so I took it off and draped it to put it back. I added two long leather pieces in to front hiding buttons, it made design more alive and moving. Draping sleeves under the cuff piece and changing all buttons more heavier and that was that. Boys gone. Girls in.

Leather Blouse

“I just found this Hanna Sarén leather blouse from my wardrobe when moving from address A to B. I have had it for years. I remember using it and it was a really hot piece, meaning, literally, hot when wearing. I like the idea of a leather blouse and I believe it is “a key piece” in fashion right now. At least the colour is right. I am curious about what will happen, but I do want the blouse back! Actually I am quite nervous now — hope this blouse is not going to turn in to a pair of mini shorts or gloves.”

Designer’s Note:

When I was dealing with this blouse, it was the year 2003. Back then, I was working a lot with leather: leather trousers, pony hair jackets and bags, skirts and shirts. I had a new trainee and I asked him to make a suggestion for a men’s leather blouse! I do not know what I was thinking, I am sure it wouldn’t have been a great selling hit. Well, something went wrong on my trainees pattern work too, and I found a blouse my size (IT #40).

When I saw this leather blouse I wanted to change the look of its surface. It was kind of flat. I unpicked front and side seams to open it in to a one piece, so I could better see the opportunities for alterations. The big question: what shall I do with the style itself? I decided to keep it as a blouse or jacket. Adding a zipper to a front line was my first idea, but seemed too easy a solution. I placed the piece on to a mannequin to see what I was able to do with, without cutting and making a new pattern. I did not want to add more material this time either. So I turned and twisted the piece on the mannequin to find a way forward. And I did: changing the pieces sewn together, I found a way to get a nice loose, over-sized jacket without buttoning or zipping.

But, the look was still too heavy. How to get more air or lightness to it? I remembered doing this paper cutting decoration with my daughter. So, I folded the paper, cut holes to a folded edge to get a nice pattern, and cut the leather with a leather knife. It was hard work and my wrist was aching so badly that my assistant had to do the rest. I was very happy with the result. I think I will do this style on my next very special collection.

A Bow Handbag

Dear Hanna,

I got this lovely leather bag with a cute ribbon from a dear friend about 2 years ago.

I used to carry it around wherever I went, and it has had its share of going to wild parties!
I love the color combination and the size is just perfect, because I always carry a lot of stuff around.

However, lately, I haven’t been going to that many parties and also the handle is getting worn-out. So, when I heard about you re-designing your old products, I thought this bag would be an interesting experiment!
Is it possible to make it even cuter?!

Designer’s Note:

I love to design handbags, all kinds of bags: purses, clutches, totes, shoulder bags, week-end bags, computer bags, shoppers. Bags are always needed and you cannot have too many. And, a handbag will finish your look, for sure. To design this one I remember wanting to do something very 80′s. For that idea, I found a discotheque ball material from Paris Premiere Vision, a materials fair, for our FW 06-07 collection, and got excited immediately. I used that for a handbag bow of course. I was using bows a lot at that time. I found the bow theme irresistible. And still I do. I have, what might be called, a bow fixation.

I have seen this lovely girl dressing up so cutely when going out and having extra-ordinary, super-fantastic make-up, always. So, it is nice to make her old Hanna Sarén handbag even cuter.

First, I change a strap and crystal components for it. Then, I open the lining so I can stitch more decoration through the leather. For a new decoration I have in mind, I need lot of stuff: a medallion, bling-bling fabric to make a star, red fabric to frill to make a round shape, lamb skin, tulle fabric in pink and lilac colours, and a blue ribbon for a bow. “Kawaii!!!” (jpn) = cute (eng).

Woolen Cardigan + New Concept

A quick follow-up to the previous post: this is the cardigan that was mentioned in the last post, which completes the Hanna Sarén white summer pants outfit. This is the woolen knit jersey cardigan, originally released as part of our winter season #15, 2007/08.

And, while I was thinking about what to do with this knit jersey cardigan, I suddenly realized that I wanted to share something else that is on my mind: “LAUNCHING NEW CONCEPT, BE READY”. Seriously. We are moving on, and moving out of our Helsinki, Fredrikinkatu 45 shop space on February 15, 2010. So, be ready for something totally new.

White Summer Pants

“I was wearing both the white trousers and the knit one fine summer day in 2008. I headed to a bar to meet a few friends, and when I finally arrived, they all stared at me in utter silence. I thought what the h*ll, what was wrong? Then they said, as if from one mouth: WHITE! You’re covered totally in white! Normally, I have a ‘slight’ fixation with the color black. Anyway, after this kind of reaction, I thought it might be better to stick with the black and give these great Hanna Sarén garments to someone on whom they fit better.”

Designer’s Note:

Linen/cotton trousers, white chalk color, super nice fabric. White is nice; but, it is a challenging color for a designer line. White color success depends on weather. I remember once I showed a totally white color collection at the Copenhagen, Milan and New York fashion weeks. That August/September was the hottest ever, worldwide, and buyers were anxious to buy only white.

When starting to sell a white collection in retail shops here in North Europe, however, the summer happened to be rainy and cold. It was a disaster. No one wanted to wear white. Luckily, Italy and the U.S. were having a hot summer, so our white line continued to do well.

Okay. So. Men’s white pants. Shall I make a girls jacket out of them, or a handbag, or a scarf? Or do I start a home line, making an art piece for our shop wall, or maybe cushions? NO. I’ll give these trousers a second chance and make the curves even more curvaceous. Unpick the side seams; measure straight diagonal lines; sew; and re-close the side seams. Curvy and white. These pants are meat for Miami!

You know, people are very functional up here.